My My My Verona - Day Two

*NOTE: this is a throwback-post! Originally posted on my "wordpress" blog and now it's been transplanted to it's rightful place here on #sisadventures - hope you enjoy!*

We were very happy to see the sun as we started our second day in Verona. We headed back to the Piazza Bra – the heart of the Old City – and quickly realized that we would be competing with a number of other tourists at the main attractions. Luckily, since we’d spent the previous evening scoping out the city, we knew our map pretty well and were able to take a few alternate streets to get to one of the most popular places in the city – Casa di Giulieta – The house of Juliet.

Every day, all day long, tourists come and go to Verona to see the places of legend made famous by good old William Shakespeare. You can take a guided “Romeo and Juliet” tour, or you can grab a map from your hotel or gift shop and follow the signs posted all over the old city to find your way to that famous balcony.

Before pushing our way to the middle of the courtyard, we went in one of the shops next door. As it turned out, the shop had a 2nd floor, and we were able to look over into the courtyard and take this picture. So – you’re looking at a courtyard, a balcony, a gate full of padlocks (people purchase locks at the nearby shop and click their locks on the gate to symbolize their everlasting love), and a statue of Juliet. If you look closely, you’ll see that the tourist posing with the statue is grabbing Juliet’s right breast. It’s one of those traditions that everyone – young and old – male and female – do for luck. Pretty funny, and if you look at a picture of the statue sans tourists, you can see that, after being embraced by millions of strangers, her right breast is now super shiny.

When we finally made our way into the courtyard to catch a closer glimpse of the balcony, we noticed a bit of commotion… a hush fell over the crowd, and 2 figures appeared on the balcony. We quickly realized it was a German teacher and her student – and the rest of her class was in the courtyard with us. As we watched, they performed the balcony scene from Romeo and Juliet.  It was sweet and hilarious, because even though we couldn’t understand what they were saying, we were able to follow along with the famous lines… “Oh Romeo, Romeo, warum bist du Romeo?”

You may be wondering if all this can really be the REAL home of Juliet and Romeo… I know I was. Even though Shakespeare definitely set his famous love story in Verona, according to Rick Steves, Italian guide-book guru, most of these “landmarks” were created in the 1970’s to attract tourists. Still, it made for a fun afternoon, and we had a lot of fun exploring and seeing all of the Shakespearean souvenirs.

Finally, it was time for the main event… OUR main reason for coming to Verona… The OPERA! Neither of us had ever been to an opera, so we were very excited and not really sure what to expect. The show started at 8 pm, but we were sitting in the General Admission seats, so we were there when the gates opened at 6:30.

Did I mention that the opera series is held in the outdoor Ancient Roman Arena? As we walked through the tunnels, I got chills thinking about the number of people who’d passed through those walkways and stones.

As we waited for the show to start, the sunset put on a grand “first act.”  In these pictures, you can see the different levels of seating: General Admission (where we were), were seats directly on the marble/stone stairs at the top of the arena. You are allowed to bring cushions and stadium seats for those sections. In the lower sections of the sides of the arena, they’d installed theatre seating, and in the stadium level seating, they had regular chairs.

Finally, it was time for the show to start! We saw our first opera in Italy; it was “Carmen,” which is set in Spain, and it was performed in French.  We did buy a program that had the entire opera with English, German, Italian and French translations, so we were able to follow along.

The experience was once-in-a-lifetime stuff, y’all. At one point, there were over 300 performers on stage.  Each act was about 45 minutes long, and there was a 30 minute break between each of the FIVE ACTS so they could switch out the scenery….so you can do the math. The show started at 8, so the show went on until well after 1 AM! I was really surprised that so many people stayed until the end – but they did, and as we spilled out into the piazza from the Arena, most of them scattered to the cafes for one last gelato or cappuccino before calling it a night.

The Maddox girls decided to pass on the late-night activities since we had an early-morning train ride to Venice the next morning.  We grabbed one last nighttime photo of the Arena before heading back to the hotel to continue our adventures! Ciao, Verona!

My My My Verona - Day One

*NOTE: this is a throwback-post! Originally posted on my "wordpress" blog and now it's been transplanted to it's rightful place here on #sisadventures - hope you enjoy!*

“Fair Verona, where we lay our scene…”

Last summer, we added Verona into our Italian adventure solely for the purpose of seeing an opera. During the summer months, the town turns one of its central attractions – Arena di Verona – into a beautiful and dramatic setting for an Opera Festival like no other.

Even though our only “planned” activity was the opera, we were able to spend some time exploring the town… starting with the main square, Piazza Brà. The term brà comes from the German word “breit” (broad). It’s by far the largest square in the old part of Verona, and is everything you have ever imagined about an “Italian” scene…

The square is lined with cafes and benches, perfect for people watching or just soaking up your surroundings. This seemed like the perfect place to try my first (and only) espresso of the trip, and of course there were plenty of gelato stands around to satisfy our gelato cravings!

As we made our way through the square, we got our first glimpse of “the” Arena, where we’d be watching the opera the next night. Well… maybe glimpse is the wrong word… it would have been hard to miss.

Even though it was late in the day, after we picked up our tickets, we had plenty of time to walk around the city and get our bearings. Just walking down the streets, you can’t help but be exposed to art at every turn. Look closely at the exterior walls of this building… so beautiful!

We walked down to the Piazza delle Erbe, which houses a marketplace full of vendors that offer the usual Italian souvenirs – but also the most delicious fruit I’ve ever tasted… I was again reminded of Under the Tuscan Sun, because the strawberries “tasted red,” and the pineapples “tasted yellow.” Delicious.

This photo of Piazza delle Erbe is courtesy of TripAdvisor

It was getting late in the day, which made for a bit of an eerie feeling when we looked up at the edges of the buildings and saw these guys looking down on us…

We finally made it to the Ponte Pietra (Stone Bridge). Again, this is exactly what you picture when you think of an Italian café, no? The flower boxes and colorful buildings and eaves… all that’s missing is the accordion music, right?

Across the bridge, you can see some beautiful “creepy Italian trees” and the Teatro Romano, some of the ancient Roman ruins in Verona. Of course the Arena back in the main square is the most visible, but in recent years, with renovations of some of the “old” buildings, they have discovered some “older” remnants of Roman history buried beneath parts of the city.

By the time we’d walked all over “old town,” we were starting to get hungry. Unfortunately, we had not really researched places to eat. We quickly learned that if you want to eat “al fresco,” you need to plan ahead… because once the patios fill up, people are NOT MOVING. FOR HOURS.

One of the things we were most looking forward to in Italy was the food. And let me tell you, Italy DID NOT DISAPPOINT. We tried everything and loved (almost) everything. But we were not really ready for the dining “experience.” It starts from the minute you sit down… first comes the olive oil and bread, and your first decision: sparkling or still water? Either way, you’re buying it, so prepare yourself for that (and drink sparingly). In fact, in Italy, it is true that the wine is almost as cheap as the water!

Once the waiter brings your drinks, he will leave you be. And so begins your Italian dining experience. Since you are enjoying the beautiful scenery and the company of your wonderful friends, the wait staff will not interrupt… to take your order, to clear your plate, to give you a refill, to bring you the bill… until you flag them down and ask. This is definitely an adjustment from our American tendencies to do things as quickly and efficiently as possible, but it is ABSOLUTELY necessary to get into this mindset early on. If you don’t adapt, you’ll be stressed out for every meal. And who wants to be stressed out when you’re in a place like this?

Stay tuned for “day two” of our adventure in Verona!